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Mexico - Baja California, Mexico // The Wolf Of Cortez

Killvan's Baja California. A tale of a garbage riddled apocalyptic wasteland by the Sea Of Cortez, and the lone wolf that came to feed at the surfers camp.

Leaving San Diego wasn't hard as the allure of Baja and it's Mexican waves was strong. The Pacific Ocean to the right, The Sea Of Cortez to the left, and dusty finger of Third World chaos smack in the middle that'd we run down south, onwards to destiny. Our stash of photocopied maps from the Surfing Magazine collection guided our way, ample directions that'd signal which tyre tracks in the sand to follow.

Tijuana was ghetto though this adventure was before the cartels started the drug war and chopping off peoples heads, so we could still spin out on what is a first timers experience of a border crossing into Mexico. Doing what first timers do, trying out your Espanol, drinking at noon, looking over your shoulder and so forth. Rosarito and Ensenada weren't much different, we had no business in these towns as our purpose was to get grubby by point breaks, make fires under the Mexican cloak of desert darkness and get closer to ourselves. We couldn't do that in America.

Getting away from the border and Mexico happened. The influence of the North seemed to dry up in the heat revealing what we'd came looking for, a Frontier. Life looked cheap down here, smelt cheaper and yet to sample a true cantina our opinions on taste would have to wait. Our campsites were crude and we had much to learn if we were to survive. We had little understanding of how to make good in the desert and everything was ramshackle, if we kept up this form it wouldn't be long before we'd grow tired of the road and gravitate towards cerveza hazed nights in a sleazy burdel like many Gringo drifters seem to do. 

As our path lead deeper into the southern sands of lower California, it took a disappointing turn somewhere back near El Rosario. It looked like the Earth had flipped a garbage tip inside out and sprayed it from East To West. A demented trash zone is what it was, a very lonely one at that. Piles of flaming basura strangling the tumbleweed, hideously rabid with the scent of rotting life. If you could conjure up a vision of Hell, this'd be dam close. By the fifth day we'd come to realise that this trail of garbage would most probably extend from here to Cabo San Lucas. At every junction there'd be piles of rubbish, menacing cacti thorns speared plastic wrappers that flapped in the desert winds, the colours of the desert compromised by an intrusion of junk.

Our first real night away from any towns we'd surfed ourselves senseless and left little in the reserve for getting the campsite prepared. The small things were a chore like making a good fire that should've kept us warm all night. As the moon rose and sun set our camp became lonely, but only for a short while. A lone dog, wolf like appeared from almost out of nowhere, circling us for a good hour. Harmless, hungry or maybe dangerous, the animal didn't give away any clues and it's mangey appearance ensured we'd be staying at length.

Darkness set in and with little clue on how the night would progress we began grabbing discarded fast food wrappers and tossing them onto the flames when the kindling got low, watching as rainbow flames wrapped into the night. Our fire was of little substance, mostly kindling of thorn bushes and cacti which made terrible fire fuel. Trying to learn in the darkness of a Baja night was so Gringo though we were warm, that was enough.  The lone wolf stayed all night though at a distance, perhaps it too was on a lonely path through Baja Mexico. 





Location: Baja North, Mexico.
Optimum: Depends on what you're after. Autumn is the bomb on average. Though all year if you're a carefree man.
Weather: Do your research, the water can be cold all year so bring a steamer all year. The desert world is not as easy as a cartoon.
Surf Conditions: Beachbreaks, Reef Breaks, Point Breaks, Bombies. Big waves can be found, like 'big' waves.
Access: Hop across the San Diego border (with insurance) and drive the toll or scenic road, as far as you wish to go.
Accomodation: Camping, cheap or exy Holiday Rentals. It's Mexico and the third world, but sometimes it's California
Live Free:  7/10.  The hardest part of Mexico to define as recent years have changed the thread in it's fabric.

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