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Chile - Pichilemu, Santiago // Kicking Back

Killvan's Chile. A tale of kicking back after surfing the long lefts of Pichilemu.

The farm was weird, a funny farm of sorts. It was headed by Mama Carmen and her strange farm hands. A dramatic set of events had led us to staying on this farm, and none of it by choice really, though the tale would have you expecting a sick recollection of queer yard folk having their way. In short, we'd blown up our van on the night highway, ended up in the ghetto and got robbed the following night. Then had the shell of a van pushed through town to Ritoque beach were we found Mama Carmen and her compound.

Mama Carmen had spent all our rent so by the time we'd figured out the place was a tweaker feature, we'd been locked in. Fortunately it was up the road from the classic beach break of Ritoque and it kept the days full of achievement, but the nights, man those were some dark nights, and I for one wasn't going to hang around and deal with what that bizarre darkness was going to bring.

The banks weren't epic, we'd had better waves up north in the lost sands of Antofagasta by comparison, so I decided to rent a small car and chase the legendary left hand point breaks south of Santiago. The weird farm just made it easier to make it happen.

Renting a new car was a celebration. The money spent supplied the right to take an inch of rubber off the back tyres and burn some clutch. Dam that's a good feeling right, belting the mechanical Jesus out of a buzzing two cylinder clapper. By now long left handers were not new to the eyes, the whole west coast of South America seemed to be a hive of spinning cocoons training northwards, and to be honest the drive down from Ritoque was a highlight. After a few days surfing the magical speed lines of Pichilemu a physical fatigue set in, like a spoilt wave stuffed pig, kicking back watching perfect surf seemed like an ok thing to do.

One afternoon onshore breeze came up enough to create an excuse to get to shore for a breather. If this scenario was at home you'd stay out into the darkness, if you were at home. Though this was Chile, and it'd be there tomorrow. The sun warmed the soles of battered feet, and salt dried on the brows. It was hard work surfing long waves in cold water, kicking back was well earned. The waves continued to peel through, relentless was this non stop barrage of corduroy ocean swell.

Manyana Manyana, I'd surf tomorrow and the next day and the next, no matter how tired I became. For knowing the only thing awaiting me back up north would be the weird Mama Carmen and her queer farm yard folk.




Location: Pichilemu, Central Chile.
Optimum: March and April.
Weather: It's typically seasonal, winter is cold, summer is warm. Water is always cold enough for rubber.
Surf Conditions: Long left sand point break.
Access: Fly into Santiago and drive for about four or five hours.
Accomodation: Camping, cheap holiday rental cabins.
Live Free:  5/10. To the south scores 10.

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